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Old 08-30-2024, 08:46 AM
Macdsl Macdsl is offline
 
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Default Mobile home insulated skirting

Morning folks.

Have any of you experience with upgrading to insulated skirting under a newer mobile home? The house currently has the thin plastic standard skirting and I’m looking to upgrade it to the insulated type to prevent freeze ups in the extreme cold season. I have a remote thermometer under the house and it does stay a lot warmer than ambient, -40 last year outside was -16 under the trailer but I have had freeze ups on piping if the heat trace or wrap on the pipes is not perfect. I know some have done more of a DIY approach and I’m looking at all options as well.

Thanks for any help and thoughts.
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Old 08-30-2024, 09:33 AM
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jungleboy jungleboy is offline
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Your best bet is to go under there and spend the time to make the heat traces and insulation perfect on the piping. Even with insulation on the skirting you still need ventilation under there or you will eventually have mold issues, so its going to be pretty hard to prevent freezing temps under there.

Our last place was a mobile with well insulated and heat traced piping, we never had issues with freeze up. You need the heat lines to go below the ground level about a foot or more where lines come out of the ground to be effective.

My cabin has wood skirting and we had some mold under there within months of closing it in. I drilled holes for vents on all sides and that solved the issue
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Old 08-30-2024, 08:34 PM
1hogfarmer 1hogfarmer is offline
 
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If you go with the insulated skirting, tee a furnace duct to pump air into the space, preferably near your utility lines
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Old 08-31-2024, 12:18 AM
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MK2750 MK2750 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleboy View Post
Your best bet is to go under there and spend the time to make the heat traces and insulation perfect on the piping. Even with insulation on the skirting you still need ventilation under there or you will eventually have mold issues, so its going to be pretty hard to prevent freezing temps under there.

Our last place was a mobile with well insulated and heat traced piping, we never had issues with freeze up. You need the heat lines to go below the ground level about a foot or more where lines come out of the ground to be effective.

My cabin has wood skirting and we had some mold under there within months of closing it in. I drilled holes for vents on all sides and that solved the issue
This is exactly right.

You can not insulate and enclose a space as mentioned above.

The most common mistake is sealing off under a deck with a solid floor above, cabins and trailers.

Enclosed spaces must be either cold or warm but not some combination.

Cold spaces need to be cross ventilated. Warm spaces need to be properly ducted, in and out.

The space under a mobile home is designed to be a cold space and is to be ventilated. The membrane should be kept in tack or resealed if access is necessary.

Because it was mentioned and commonly done, Please do not drop a heat run into the crawl space area. The moist warm air will produce mold and other issues.

Modular type duct systems are balanced and run at a higher static pressure than a house furnace. Basically, the main run is all the same size and is pressured up to deliver equal air flow to all registers.

There is no extra pressure or volume to dump heat runs into an addition for example. You rob Peter to pay Paul. Air flow will be reduced across the trailer and the furthest rooms from the furnace will most often become very cold.

At the same time temperatures drop above the membrane in different places like ensuites and under kitchens.

If you happen to be changing the furnace out at the same time as making an addition you could add a bigger furnace that was made to move more air. But again, the addition would have to be part of the house and the membrane must be kept in tack or resealed afterwards.

The furnace itself is the return air for the entire trailer. This is why there is such big a space under the doors etc.. It allows air to travel back to the furnace and be recycled as return air.

Dumping air out of the main shell of the home creates problems. Because we have air leaving the trailer that shouldn't be, the pressure can become negative.

Add a range hood, turn on the dryer and all of a sudden we have gas appliances back drafting.

Every year we get dozens of calls from people having major trouble in trailers during cold snaps. More often than not someone was under the trailer screwing with duct work or plumbing with nothing but good intentions.
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Old 08-31-2024, 10:04 AM
MoPat MoPat is offline
 
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Check out Trimlock.ca. They manufacture insulated steel skirting. Sold out of Lethbridge. I installed it a few years ago and been happy with their product.


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Old 08-31-2024, 10:49 PM
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fordtruckin fordtruckin is offline
 
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Lived in a trailer that had 2” of polyiso foam board insulation on the back side of the skirting. It wasn’t perfectly air tight so I don’t think mold or moisture problems were ever an issue. It did keep underneath a few degrees warmer.l though.

I enclosed my back deck to make another bedroom. We insulated the floor in between the joists, put 1” polyiso on the bottom, capped with osb and just left it with the metal skirting that was around the deck. I did glue the subfloor down on top of the joists and the insulation in the joists was Kraft face so I don’t anticipate any moisture problems.the space underneath isn’t airtight because the skirting isn’t super tight fitting.
Be the second year for the room set up this way.
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Old 09-01-2024, 07:20 PM
Bushleague Bushleague is offline
 
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Heat trace on exposed piping, and metal roofing material for the skirting. The metal roofing is tough and can be run down into the dirt to keep pests out without suffering any ill effects, and it looks better than most other options.

I've owned several mobiles, one that I live in as well as some that I rent, and I never have trouble with any of them. On a -30 ish day, because I keep the woodstove blazing, I'll need to run the water a couple times but thats it. My brother who's using treated plywood has had squirrels and other vermin get in, wrecking insulation/ heat trace, and even chewing through a water line once.
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Last edited by Bushleague; 09-01-2024 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 09-01-2024, 07:57 PM
W921 W921 is offline
 
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The trouble is when you get 3 or 4 weeks of minus 30 and power goes off. If rural they will restore your power last.
Anyway regardwhat you use for skirting I would use straw bales in winter months as well. Insurance won't cover you but they won't cover you anyways.
Also build lots of access points in your skirting. Access from inside the house would be best.
If those water lines under your floor freeze and bust they will make a mess and wreck your insulation. Good luck hiring a plumber to crawl under a house to fix in miserable weather.
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Old 09-01-2024, 08:04 PM
W921 W921 is offline
 
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Frost will heave the ground and skirting will buckle.
Hard to describe but build basically a ladder on its side. Insulate with Styrofoam. Use rebar into ground to keep bottom edge of skirting from moving but build so rebar can slide through ladder skirting so it doesn't buckle it. You can use tractor inertube on bottom skirting and bury other side under dirt for flexible seal.
Build good access doors
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