Broadhead vs field point tuning prime alloy

[Tlmromaniuk]

Was told to sight in for a field point via adjusting sight then fallow up with a brodhead then move the arrow rest in the direction of the field point arrow to correct the flight if the brodhead to the flight of the field point.
Does this work
Will I be able to sight in and shoot brodheads or field points on the same bow tune ? I didn't have this issue with my g5 primal just liking for opinions
Thanks
Tyson

[Alberta Bigbore]

Paper tune...... ( my Alloy shot bullet holes out of the box ((((helps when ubhave a bow with less than 1% cam lean )))))))))))...and... when i put World Best strings on it...no adjustment needed)

Then go out and sight in your bow for 20,30,40 or whatever...


Then ...walk back tune with your field points.. i did from 20,30 and 40. ... i was fortunate enough not to have to make any adjustments to my rest... she was bang on out of the gate.

Im tuning broadheads this weekend. ......hopefully if i have time.


Where did u get your Prime?

[SBE2]

Originally Posted by Tlmromaniuk

Was told to sight in for a field point via adjusting sight then fallow up with a brodhead then move the arrow rest in the direction of the field point arrow to correct the flight if the brodhead to the flight of the field point.
Does this work
Will I be able to sight in and shoot brodheads or field points on the same bow tune ? I didn't have this issue with my g5 primal just liking for opinions
Thanks
Tyson

I am not expert that is for sure, but one easier way of doing it is to shoot mechanical broadheads instead of fixed. There are many on the market that will hit the same spot as your field points, not extra tuning. I can only speak for NAP Spitfire 3 blades, pretty well bang on with my field points to 40, haven't done much beyond that. I know others have had similar results with other brands of mechanicals as well. Good luck.

[Tlmromaniuk]

Well let me know how your brodheads tuning goes .
I'm thinking I am having an issue with my with my rest brodheads is making everything worse .
Got my prime frm Lawrance the only thing is I have no time to get down there to talk to him I'm working 6-10s
If I was to sight in to 20 yards with field points( all in a 2 inch target ) then with a fixed blade or mechanicals try group arrows all are off (low to the right ) so I'm thinking I'm having a issue with my rest and just not seeing it on paper or with field points as all I shot was 20 yards when I did shoot 30 every thing was messed up with just field points
Whn I have some time I'm fount to mess with the rest and give Lawrance a call see what he thinks

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Here is a how to with pics of that method...

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=223992

Neil

[Tlmromaniuk]

Thanks Neil I was looking for that seen it before just could not find it.
Has any one has success tuning there bow in this way and having good groups with brodheads and field points

[waterboy]

For what it's worth, had a heck of a time tuning my bows (prime shift and impact) to the broadheads as well (thanks Neil ;-))....granted maybe I could be a bit more experienced in tuning or maybe different bows or broadheads are easier/more difficult to tune, but just saying. I was planting 2" groups consistantly out to 40+ yards with my fieldpoints, and the broadheads wanted to fly up to the right...tried the rest, etc....have the bows both tuned nicely to my broadheads now, but unfortunately had to sacrifice the fieldpoint accuracy.....In any case things are cool now...wish i could have it so that fieldpoints fly identical to broadheads, but find it hard to beleive I am the only one out there that had to make the choice. good luck and all the best to everyone counting down the days!

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow

Here is a how to with pics of that method...

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=223992

Neil

you must see this!

[NayNay]

Originally Posted by SBE2

I am not expert that is for sure, but one easier way of doing it is to shoot mechanical broadheads instead of fixed. There are many on the market that will hit the same spot as your field points, not extra tuning. I can only speak for NAP Spitfire 3 blades, pretty well bang on with my field points to 40, haven't done much beyond that. I know others have had similar results with other brands of mechanicals as well. Good luck.

Shoot mechanicals because you want to, not because you have to.

If your fixed blade broad heads don't have the same POI as your field points you are just masking the problem with mechanicals. They might shoot the same as your field points but more than likely they won't be flying very straight/efficiently down range. This will lead to the "darn mechanicals failed to penetrate" thread.

Lots of info on tuning here the last couple months. Another good read is the kitchen sink tuning method by nuts&bolts on archerytalk.

If you aren't able to do this yourself go into a knowledgeable archery shop (don't wait until August 24 to do this, they really dislike those kind of people) and get them to help you.

Few things to check right off the get go for me would be grip/form, draw length is correct, arrow spine is correct, center shot, timing, excessive cam lean. Any one of these will cause huge problems when you go to broad head tune.

[manosteel]

Paper tune will only get you close. THere are some basic steps but not all bows are the same and there will be differences, especial if you have a yoke or not or even a floating yoke like the mathews monster/ chill series of bows. But above all you need to have the basic fundemantals of shooting a bow down pat. Shooter error is magnified with broadheads.

Get the right draw length, most people are over drawn.
Get your bow to manufactor specs, very important step most people skip.
Set centre shot to manufactures reccomendations.
Make sure string is broken in at this point, usually 200+ shots, all strings stretch I don't care what the makers say, even my world best strings stretched a bit.
Paper tune for perfect bullet hole but don't get stuck here,

This is where people start doing things different. But the goal is to have you field points and broadheads hitting the same point.

Some will bareshafts paper tune, I have never done this so can't speak to how effective it is.

Some Walk back tune, to find true centre shot, I use the modified French walk back tune.

I have yokes on my hoyt so I use the the bareshafts tunning method to yoke tune my bow to perfection. After I get bareshafts and fletched shafts to have the same point of impact perfectly straight relative to each other at 20 yards, and I mean the shafts are touching each other, my broadheads have always flew true past 60 yards with FP.

With my MR7 I used the method Neil describes. In his post with moving the rest method.

My advice is go on Archery Talk and searching tunning _______ (you bow model) to get some good advice.

While there are some great shops like Neil's around, no one will take the time like you will to ensure your bow is perfect, so take the time to learn how.

[SBE2]

Originally Posted by NayNay

Shoot mechanicals because you want to, not because you have to.

If your fixed blade broad heads don't have the same POI as your field points you are just masking the problem with mechanicals. They might shoot the same as your field points but more than likely they won't be flying very straight/efficiently down range. This will lead to the "darn mechanicals failed to penetrate" thread.

Lots of info on tuning here the last couple months. Another good read is the kitchen sink tuning method by nuts&bolts on archerytalk.

If you aren't able to do this yourself go into a knowledgeable archery shop (don't wait until August 24 to do this, they really dislike those kind of people) and get them to help you.

Few things to check right off the get go for me would be grip/form, draw length is correct, arrow spine is correct, center shot, timing, excessive cam lean. Any one of these will cause huge problems when you go to broad head tune.

My bow and all 18 arrows were super tuned at Jimbows. So what are you suggesting? 18 arrows shooting through a dime, and the mechanical are yielding the same results. Am I missing something you are trying to suggest?

[NayNay]

Originally Posted by SBE2

My bow and all 18 arrows were super tuned at Jimbows. So what are you suggesting? 18 arrows shooting through a dime, and the mechanical are yielding the same results. Am I missing something you are trying to suggest?

If your field points and fixed blade heads (or bare shaft) don't have the same POI then either the bow or the archer need some work.

Mechanicals are not a cure all for tuning problems, that is all I'm trying to say.

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by NayNay

If your field points and fixed blade heads (or bare shaft) don't have the same POI then either the bow or the archer need some work.

Mechanicals are not a cure all for tuning problems, that is all I'm trying to say.

I agree 100%...If you have a bow that is untuned and your arrow is porhposing or fishtailing in flight...throw on a mecanical and that arrow is still porhposing or fishtailing with now a mecanical broadhead...

It may not plane as much as a fixed head...but the mecanical may fail if at extreme entry of a fishtail left or right...probably the highest percentage reason for mecanical failures...

Neil

[elkoholik]

Originally Posted by SBE2

My bow and all 18 arrows were super tuned at Jimbows. So what are you suggesting? 18 arrows shooting through a dime, and the mechanical are yielding the same results. Am I missing something you are trying to suggest?

Super tune is good for your bow not for YOU and your BOW. YOU have to shoot your bow and tune it to your shooting. The super tune is good to make sure your bow is tuned with no human interaction. If you are having issues with broad head and field point not impacting in the same spot, it will be the SHOOTER. In my experience it is in the bow hand, I would put money that the bow is being torqued. Many times you do not see this until you bareshaft tune and especially when you shoot broad heads as this magnifies the tuning/shooters problems to the point where you notice it. As stated before make sure your bow is tuned to you no matter what broad head you use.

Cheers, Elk

[manosteel]

Originally Posted by elkoholik

Super tune is good for your bow not for YOU and your BOW. YOU have to shoot your bow and tune it to your shooting. The super tune is good to make sure your bow is tuned with no human interaction. If you are having issues with broad head and field point not impacting in the same spot, it will be the SHOOTER. In my experience it is in the bow hand, I would put money that the bow is being torqued. Many times you do not see this until you bareshaft tune and especially when you shoot broad heads as this magnifies the tuning/shooters problems to the point where you notice it. As stated before make sure your bow is tuned to you no matter what broad head you use.

Cheers, Elk

100% agree

[SBE2]

Originally Posted by elkoholik

Super tune is good for your bow not for YOU and your BOW. YOU have to shoot your bow and tune it to your shooting. The super tune is good to make sure your bow is tuned with no human interaction. If you are having issues with broad head and field point not impacting in the same spot, it will be the SHOOTER. In my experience it is in the bow hand, I would put money that the bow is being torqued. Many times you do not see this until you bareshaft tune and especially when you shoot broad heads as this magnifies the tuning/shooters problems to the point where you notice it. As stated before make sure your bow is tuned to you no matter what broad head you use.

Cheers, Elk

Makes sense, thanks. But have not shot fixed at all, so have yet to see how they do fly for me. Was just saying that for most they fly the same as their field points. Good tips here, thanks.

[Tlmromaniuk]

So I tryed this to last night
Walk back tuning to 50 yards set up my virtical shot by adjusting my rest. Then started at 20 yard zeroed my sigh pin then shot a field point fallowed by a slick trick adjusted the rest and ended up putting field point and brodheads in a 2 in target this does work However I need to fix some fletching a now first picture 20 yards second is at 30 yards

[manosteel]

Great shooting, can't do much better than that!