Broadheads

[H380]

Recurve bow hunters, whats your favorite ? I'm leaning toward some kind of cut on impact, maybe a 2 blade with a bleeder blade, unless there is something better ...

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[LeroyvdH]

As a wood arrow guy. I like Zwicky Eskimos 125gr 2 blade. Always worked for me

[Ballertrawler II]

Sharp ones

[H380]

Originally Posted by Ballertrawler II

Sharp ones

Really, is that the best you can come up with?

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[Ballertrawler II]

with a pointy end

[SouthWestRanger]

Tooth of the arrow 2-blade single bevel out of trad or modern compound, to my knowledge I was the first person to kill an elk with them last season an I have nothing but good things to say about performance.

[H380]

Originally Posted by SouthWestRanger

Tooth of the arrow 2-blade single bevel out of trad or modern compound, to my knowledge I was the first person to kill an elk with them last season an I have nothing but good things to say about performance.

I've heard good things about them ,pricey like most stuff these days

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[H380]

Originally Posted by Ballertrawler II

with a pointy end

Thanx for the info

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[ramonmark]

I have both of these and theyre on opposite ends of the price spectrum.

If you're looking at spending money, buy once cry once! When I feel like being fancy and spoiling my elk to death :-), I use the 200 grain single bevel Iron Will with the bleeder.

With that said I've bought a lot of broadheads from Alien archery out of australia. Jason is a great guy and he usually throws in extras. I think you can get six 200 grains single bevel broadheads for a little over 65 bucks, shipped! Theyre exceptionally well made, not as hard as the iron will, but they get the job done. I shot 4 black bear with the same Broadhead. I didn't resharpen up that head until after the third bear. And that was cause I kept getting full pass thoughs. On the third bear I hammered a massive rock after the pass through.

[Coiloil37]

Glue in or screw on? What are the bow specs and arrow weight? Target species?

[H380]

Screw on type ,whitetails and mule deer .. my bow is 45# but with my long draw im probably pulling close to 50 ,my target points are 100 gr,should I stay that weight or be heavier. Arrows are full.length 340 gold tips

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[LeroyvdH]

Originally Posted by H380

Screw on type ,whitetails and mule deer .. my bow is 45# but with my long draw im probably pulling close to 50 ,my target points are 100 gr,should I stay that weight or be heavier. Arrows are full.length 340 gold tips

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If your arrows are working for you stick with it. 100gr will be fine. You can try 125gr target points and see if they fly good, as a different option

[H380]

Originally Posted by LeroyvdH

If your arrows are working for you stick with it. 100gr will be fine. You can try 125gr target points and see if they fly good, as a different option

Thx for the info

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[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by H380

Screw on type ,whitetails and mule deer .. my bow is 45# but with my long draw im probably pulling close to 50 ,my target points are 100 gr,should I stay that weight or be heavier. Arrows are full.length 340 gold tips



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Safe to assume your shooting the GT traditional at 12 grains per inch and your total arrow weight is up around 500+ grains?



I would stick with something like a Magnus stinger, VPA or steelforce. Think cut on contact, modest cut diameter, high mechanical advantage.



I shoot a lot of Magnus from my compounds because I can send them back for replacement when I wreck them. I typically send them back 2-3 doz at a time and on average I get a few kills per head before they get damaged. The VPA is much tougher but also heavier when you get long enough to exploit the mechanical advantage. I used to shoot the 3 blade vpa from my longbow.







Are you shooting off the shelf? Is it center shot? You shooting off a rest? How are the current arrows and point weight tuning? My guess is that they’re full length to tune with that light tip weight?



Personally I would bump the weight up and cut the arrow down if require to tune. Trad gear uses momentum to penetrate and overall weight helps momentum. Usually we are talking 150-300 grain broadheads and a minimum of 10gpp (which you’re probably already achieving). Heavier broadheads are stronger as they have more steel ferrules, I like 150+ grain myself. Higher FOC (when properly tuned) also increases arrow stability and penetration.




You didn’t ask but also get your hands on some unprocessed wild turkey feathers for your fletching. You’ll be amazed at how superior they are to a commercial, processed feather from a domestic bird. They’re even better than vanes and completely water proof.

[H380]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

Safe to assume your shooting the GT traditional at 12 grains per inch and your total arrow weight is up around 500+ grains?



I would stick with something like a Magnus stinger, VPA or steelforce. Think cut on contact, modest cut diameter, high mechanical advantage.



I shoot a lot of Magnus from my compounds because I can send them back for replacement when I wreck them. I typically send them back 2-3 doz at a time and on average I get a few kills per head before they get damaged. The VPA is much tougher but also heavier when you get long enough to exploit the mechanical advantage. I used to shoot the 3 blade vpa from my longbow.







Are you shooting off the shelf? Is it center shot? You shooting off a rest? How are the current arrows and point weight tuning? My guess is that they’re full length to tune with that light tip weight?



Personally I would bump the weight up and cut the arrow down if require to tune. Trad gear uses momentum to penetrate and overall weight helps momentum. Usually we are talking 150-300 grain broadheads and a minimum of 10gpp (which you’re probably already achieving). Heavier broadheads are stronger as they have more steel ferrules, I like 150+ grain myself. Higher FOC (when properly tuned) also increases arrow stability and penetration.




You didn’t ask but also get your hands on some unprocessed wild turkey feathers for your fletching. You’ll be amazed at how superior they are to a commercial, processed feather from a domestic bird. They’re even better than vanes and completely water proof.

Thanx for the comments and info ,greatly appreciated.. I'm shooting off the rest and think they should be shortened a bit..I've got a pack of steelforce 100 gr heads ,they fly nice but are slightly under legal width . Magnus seems to be a common and popular head and I'm leaning that direction . Thanx again , beauty bear by the way .

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[SteveY66]

has anyone had any experience with sevr broadheads?

[Gun]

Ballertrawler LMA0!

Any good quality BH will work. Get them scalpel, shaving sharp!

I use both Cutthroat 190 gr single bevel and Zwickey Deltas for does.

Killed 5 members of the deer family last year, including P&Y Moose. All but one died in sight.

[H380]

Originally Posted by Gun

Ballertrawler LMA0!



Any good quality BH will work. Get them scalpel, shaving sharp!



I use both Cutthroat 190 gr single bevel and Zwickey Deltas for does.



Killed 5 members of the deer family last year, including P&Y Moose. All but one died in sight.

Thanx for the info , yes any broadhead will work but all need to be sharp..do you shoot yhe same weight practice point as broadheads ?

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[Gun]

Yes, same weight. Fly and group the same