ATV Tub Trailer Big Game Loading Ramp

[Demonical]

When I shot my bull moose back in October, we did the 'flip the tub trailer on it's side' loading deal.

Well that might work okay if your trailer had really stiff tires or inner tubes, but mine don't have tubes and they're just a soft ATV tire. So of course we popped the beads off both tires on the bottom side.
So we had a 1,000 lb bull moose in the trailer with the trailer leaning way over to that side.
And on the rough trail we were on, the damn trailer flipped like 3 times, so in all we had to load the moose 4 times.

What a ****show!

So I came up with this idea for loading big game (or other stuff) into the tub trailer.
One thing that might be a problem; winching through the roller fairlead limits how far I can pull the winch line.
I do have a simple boat trailer roller I could use instead, I guess I'll have to see how this works?
The fairlead does ensure the winch line pulls straight though.

Feedback always appreciated! If you've got ideas on a better way I'm open, let's hear 'em!










Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHzlbMYcmbI&t=35s

[Big Grey Wolf]

WE designed our walking beam trailers with boat winch on hitch and made them with pin to allow for dump angle. It is one man job crank winch and load a moose.

[Demonical]

^ Ok.

Ya my tub trailer had a pin in the front, to allow it to dump.
But I always found it a p.i.t.a. to take that pin in/out and it allows too much play in the tongue.
Then there's the issue of once a heavy load is in the tub, getting that pin back in.

So on my tub trailer I replaced the pin with a bolt and bolted it up tight.

But I did ponder on that idea, I will admit.

[big zeke]

Really, it is. On mine I keep a comealong on the bike at all times. To load I just hook the comealong on the hitch and then lever it all the way up. Keep the trailer hooked to the bike otherwise it will just flip onto the moose. The sharp angles your winch cable will see could be problematic

The ramp looks nice, we normally just cut 2-3 poles at around 7' long, jam them tight to the back of the trailer as a ramp, then we just leave them out there when done.

I imagine the third time the moose unloaded itself, a few squirrels learned a few new words. Lashing him in, with a ratchet strap or even 1/4" rope might help.

[fatboyz]

Just 1/4 it up first. Need to do that to butcher it anyway. Sure easier on the equipment and the back!

[Curtsyneil]

First off jim great design it should work great. I do have some advise with the tub trailer hitch tho. If you popped off the hitch 3-4 times it's probably wrecked the 1 7/8 or 2 inch hitch. If it's a 1 7/8 hitch upgrade to 2 inch cause ounce you slip them off more than one time it will happen multiple times again for sure. Only know this from experience from goin into orloff lake loaded with boats and gear. What make is your tub? If it's a mule or a rhino aluminum tub they come with better tires then the knock off plastic tubs atv turf tire. If your tub came with the crapy tires from new upgrade to a better turf tire like the ones on the mule or rhino tubs. Hope you get out for some deer looking forward to seeing the video. Make sure you got your focus figured out tho this year. Lol. Just joking!!

[heymshooter]

We put a boat winch on a bolt on post that sticks up over the the front of the tub and a couple of poles on the back.

[ghfalls]

I just put two large tie down u see the moose, then put the tub trailer upside down on top of moose, wrap straps around bottom of trailer and tighten them up. Then hook quad winch to the hitch on the tub trailer and flip it over backwards on to its wheels again. With the walking beam axles, it comes down fairly gently. Then hook back up to quad and haul out.

[Demonical]

@Curtsyneil. Funny you mention the blurry video!

I'm just now sitting and frigging around with both my Panasonic cameras, which have been the source of crappy videos, but the bigger problem would be ME, the dummy trying to shoot video!

Also, I've just fired up the Canon Vixia HF G70 for the first time. Trying to learn the ins and outs of it.

Did a few test videos with it, gonna see what it looks like as compared to the Panasonics (I know it will be vastly better, in some regards).

I've also upgraded the tripod I was using for the Panasonic, which should help me position it above grass/brush etc...
I got the same tripod for the Canon Vixia btw.

One thing about my little Panasonics that cannot be beat: they are extremely rugged and completely weather/waterproof.
And a serious drawback to the Canon, it is zero weatherproof let alone waterproof! I'm gonna have to treat it very carefully and basically only use it in ideal weather.

I might need some way to ensure the ball doesn't pop off, as you say.

@ghfalls. I like the sound of how you do that, flipping the trailer lengthwise instead of sideways.

@big zeke. As to the acute angle of the winch line I don't have the answer without trying to pull another bull moose into the trailer.
I do have snatch blocks and if I found the winch couldn't pull it, I'd resort to using a snatch double, to double the winch pulling power.



Thanks for all the feedback!

[Moo Snukkle]

Exactly how ghfalls described loading will get you this result

For success, it’s best to fasten head securely as close to hitch as possible. Any type of eye or D ring welded to drawbar that will hold a strap hook and winch hook is money. Best with 2 people but 1 guy with some strategically placed logs to keep hitch from slamming into ground should do the trick. Practice makes perfect!


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[Demonical]

I do a lot of solo hunts. It's one of the reasons I wanted to build this.
I'm sure that I can load a moose by myself, with this set up.

Forgot to mention that.

Another thought: I don't think the rubber boat roller would work, it needs to be a steel roller to handle the pressure. That's if I find the roller fairlead doesn't work.
So if the fairlead is a problem, I'll make a steel roller similar to what is on the back.

[wallz]

Sorry for this, but I just don't get the need to take the moose out whole!

Break it down into more manageable pcs. Heck of a lot easier, and probably quicker in the end.

Just my 2 bits.

[Moo Snukkle]

Originally Posted by wallz

Sorry for this, but I just don't get the need to take the moose out whole!

Break it down into more manageable pcs. Heck of a lot easier, and probably quicker in the end.

Just my 2 bits.

Getting a large animal out whole is more of a want for me, and the guys I roll with. It boils down to cleanliness for me. My preference is to handle my game in a more controlled environment. Hunters know the dog days of heat and flies.You’ve got to get the heat out of the meat, and you have to keep the flies off of it. OP has the mechanical means to not lift anything by hand and is able to avoid injury associated with that. I fully endorse that thinking. This will get your game back to camp Clean. I know I’d rather be breaking down an animal at camp or at home. You’ll have weapons put away. You’ll have warm soapy water made up to keep things clean. Music on. Full Solo cup nearby. Skin carcass back and remove meat into bags as you go. This controls how much you leave exposed, keeping the flies at bay. You don’t want any exposed meat to come into contact with the urine soaked fur of a rutting bull moose. Keeping meat clean is the goal here. Bagged game is easy to manage on the ground. Machinery speeds up the process of getting game to a place where it can cool quicker.
I’ve seen unskinned quarters thrown into a tub, with exposed flesh in contact with hide.
I’ve seen skinned quarters thrown into a tub on a tarp, but so full of leaves and dirt and hair, that no butcher would consider even hanging it.
I’ve recently heard of a legally harvested bull elk being drug back to camp behind a quad, on a gravel road. Granted, it was only for a mile, in third gear, but I wouldn’t want to be part of any such disrespect for game.

So, if moving game whole, helps me control cleanliness, and reduce risk of spoilage, I’m all for it.

[Curtsyneil]

I was thinking the same thing about the rubber roller in the back. I think the pressure from the winch line will cut threw that rubber like soft butter. I would actually also be worried about loading a moose that there will be a crazy amount of force on the ball at the front of the side by side enough that you might want to secure it with something so it doesn't pop off the ball while loading up the moose. Just thoughts but of course test and tune is all a guy can do.

[Demonical]

^ Great answer. Keeping it whole, hide on, keeping it clean, getting it loaded fast and off to proper processing/cooler asap.

[ghfalls]

Originally Posted by Moo Snukkle

Getting a large animal out whole is more of a want for me, and the guys I roll with. It boils down to cleanliness for me. My preference is to handle my game in a more controlled environment. Hunters know the dog days of heat and flies.You’ve got to get the heat out of the meat, and you have to keep the flies off of it. OP has the mechanical means to not lift anything by hand and is able to avoid injury associated with that. I fully endorse that thinking. This will get your game back to camp Clean. I know I’d rather be breaking down an animal at camp or at home. You’ll have weapons put away. You’ll have warm soapy water made up to keep things clean. Music on. Full Solo cup nearby. Skin carcass back and remove meat into bags as you go. This controls how much you leave exposed, keeping the flies at bay. You don’t want any exposed meat to come into contact with the urine soaked fur of a rutting bull moose. Keeping meat clean is the goal here. Bagged game is easy to manage on the ground. Machinery speeds up the process of getting game to a place where it can cool quicker.
I’ve seen unskinned quarters thrown into a tub, with exposed flesh in contact with hide.
I’ve seen skinned quarters thrown into a tub on a tarp, but so full of leaves and dirt and hair, that no butcher would consider even hanging it.
I’ve recently heard of a legally harvested bull elk being drug back to camp behind a quad, on a gravel road. Granted, it was only for a mile, in third gear, but I wouldn’t want to be part of any such disrespect for game.

So, if moving game whole, helps me control cleanliness, and reduce risk of spoilage, I’m all for it.

Well said.

[waldedw]

We use a wagon and take animals out of the bush and back to camp, we flip the wagon on it's side along the backbone, head to the front, run a sling over the wagon and tie all 4 legs together at the knuckle, hook a winch on and roll it back on it's wheels, it comes down nice and gentle and we have never popped a tire off it's bead, hook up to the wagon and tarp the animal in to keep it clean then off to camp to hang and skin. Once it's skinned we load it into the truck, tarp it again to keep it clean and off to the processing plant we go.
A buddy had a wagon similar to this years back, the BIL took the measurements from it and built one for us, all in at the time was less than $400 I believe the count on our wagon is now 25 animals hauled out.
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We were at South Wapiti Meats a few years back when another group of hunters came to drop off a moose, it looked like it had been drug for miles, loaded on a small open flat deck skidoo trailer, hide still on and covered in mud, Terry took one look at it and refused to take it in. We like to get our animals to the butcher shop the way we would want them to be if we were doing the processing ourselves.

[Demonical]

^ Great pics.

[-JR-]

My trailer had sheet of plywood on top that was hinged at the back and I had an electric winch at the back of my quad. Very easy to winch a moose up ramp then I would close the ramp as much as i could holding it down with a strap

Very few quads have any steel at the back to mount a winch so I never updated in buying a newer quad Mine was a 1986 Honda 4 tracks

[Demonical]

Sometimes when, you ask a question, you are really providing your own answer.
Well the question I had was "Is the roller fairlead going to be an issue?"
And I knew the answer.
So today I fabbed up a new steel roller to replace the fairlead. I made it taller, to ensure the winch line clears the tub trailer frame, narrower (only 3-1/2" wide) and deeper.
Pretty confident it's going to do everything I need. And maybe I'll find another use for the roller fairlead.