Erratic groupings - alternating groups HELP!

[Foonus]

Originally Posted by outdoorsman12b

...
- action screws/bases/rings are torqued properly

IMO he's dead on here. Action screws. One patterning is tension on barrel, other is lack of.
Was originally going to suggest similar thing if you were shooting from a bipod and were checking it on some shots vs not on others, then noticed you posted that you shot from bench.

[Glenn D]

I had same problem with my vortex scope, turns out the shop that installed my scope over torqued the rings and crushed the tube. This caused the ocular lens to become loose so i have three or four shot groups then point of impact would seem to move. Have to be careful with vortex scopes when tightening down the rings they have softer tubes than other scopes

[Jesse19]

Sorry for bumping this thread a year later, but I received the scope back from Vortex after they checked it out and gave it the all-clear.

I had the local shop remove the original Weaver-Kaspa scope that came on the rifle again, and re-install and boresight the Vortex Viper.

Took the rifle out to the range and was able to hit paper at 100 yards before the light ran out.

Question for everybody here:

When shooting with a Caldwell lead sled, the rifle is rested in the sled and positioned close to the bullseye. When I say "close," I mean within a couple inches @ 100 yards. I have been gripping the rifle and fine-tuning the rifle to point dead-on bullseye. Cheek placement, grip on the rifle are all affecting where the aim of the rifle is before I pull the trigger.

I do not put my finger on the barrel anymore - the only thing that I am in control of when shooting is how my grip/cheek placement is affecting the shot. Should I be resting the rifle in the lead sled and basically only looking through the scope and squeezing the trigger?

Thanks everybody!

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Jesse19

Sorry for bumping this thread a year later, but I received the scope back from Vortex after they checked it out and gave it the all-clear.

I had the local shop remove the original Weaver-Kaspa scope that came on the rifle again, and re-install and boresight the Vortex Viper.

Took the rifle out to the range and was able to hit paper at 100 yards before the light ran out.

Question for everybody here:

When shooting with a Caldwell lead sled, the rifle is rested in the sled and positioned close to the bullseye. When I say "close," I mean within a couple inches @ 100 yards. I have been gripping the rifle and fine-tuning the rifle to point dead-on bullseye. Cheek placement, grip on the rifle are all affecting where the aim of the rifle is before I pull the trigger.

I do not put my finger on the barrel anymore - the only thing that I am in control of when shooting is how my grip/cheek placement is affecting the shot. Should I be resting the rifle in the lead sled and basically only looking through the scope and squeezing the trigger?

Thanks everybody!

Do yourself a favor, and get rid of the Lead Sled

[Stinky Coyote]

x2 on that!

[Jesse19]

Sorry for the noob question - but what would getting rid of the lead sled do? Goal is to have a rested rifle while sighting in. I am envious of you guys who are solid shots at sighting in a rifle... - all the sighting in videos on youtube I have watched so far use rests.

Is there a better method?

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Jesse19

Sorry for the noob question - but what would getting rid of the lead sled do? Goal is to have a rested rifle while sighting in. I am envious of you guys who are solid shots at sighting in a rifle... - all the sighting in videos on youtube I have watched so far use rests.

Is there a better method?

A rest is fine, the issue is the lead sled. Your gun will hit a different POI after you take it out of the sled and because the sled stops the gun from recoiling at all you put tremendous stress on the stock. Wood and even some synthetic stocks have been damaged or completely broken, especially at the pistol grip, from shooting guns in a lead sled. Use a front rest and rear bag so the gun can move properly on recoil.

[Jesse19]

Originally Posted by Dean2

A rest is fine, the issue is the lead sled. Your gun will hit a different POI after you take it out of the sled and because the sled stops the gun from recoiling at all you put tremendous stress on the stock. Wood and even some synthetic stocks have been damaged or completely broken, especially at the pistol grip, from shooting guns in a lead sled. Use a front rest and rear bag so the gun can move properly on recoil.

Noted, thanks! I'll bring my shooting sticks and a cushion for the rear rest this weekend.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Jesse19

Sorry for the noob question - but what would getting rid of the lead sled do? Goal is to have a rested rifle while sighting in. I am envious of you guys who are solid shots at sighting in a rifle... - all the sighting in videos on youtube I have watched so far use rests.

Is there a better method?

Get a proper front rest and bag, and a rear bag, and it will be a huge improvement.

[obsessed1]

Lead sleds have a habit of breaking stocks. Use a good front bag or rest and a rear bag. Set them up so the front rest doesn't touch the sling stud even in recoil. With the axis I find putting the bag about 2" forward of the mag well gives best results with the flimsy stock. The rear bag should be set up so under recoil the bag allows the gun to come straight back not laterally at all.

[Jesse19]

Came back to post an update.

After thinking about this issue more, I think I have to chalk it up to “the nut behind the bolt” - me.

I took the rifle out and sighted it in this fall and was able to get 1” groups at 100 yards using cheap federal blue box rounds.

Still used the lead sled as a rest but without the weight this time. Hardly touched the rifle except for the trigger and the rifle was shooting well.


Managed to knock down a good whitetail at about 270 yards so I am a happy camper. Thanks everybody for the help!

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by Jesse19

Came back to post an update.

After thinking about this issue more, I think I have to chalk it up to “the nut behind the bolt” - me.

I took the rifle out and sighted it in this fall and was able to get 1” groups at 100 yards using cheap federal blue box rounds.

Still used the lead sled as a rest but without the weight this time. Hardly touched the rifle except for the trigger and the rifle was shooting well.


Managed to knock down a good whitetail at about 270 yards so I am a happy camper. Thanks everybody for the help!

GOOD NEWS!
Cat

[kujoseto]

Great to hear.
But you post an update like that without a pic of the whitetail?!?!?
Unforgivable