Broadhead tune in more detail...

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Gary as promised....This is a little more detailed in sequence than my diagram




slide #1 is group with broadhead and field point slide #2 with both shot and step taken...and so one...easy to understand once you get how its explained...

I have pics on my broadhead and tune set up but didnt have time to put in all the graphics so thanks to Doc on archery talk for these pics...

Pic #1- 3 shot group with FP [Field Points] and 3 shot group of BH [Broadheads] and step taken...



Pic #2 and Step #2...and so on
















Neil

[waterboy]

Thanks Neil...cool stuff!

[Tlmromaniuk]

I have seen that just could not find it
Thank you
I'll give her a try and see how all goes

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Did a final tune using this method and was putting broadheads [G5 Striker 125gr] in a three inch circle at 50 yards last night...flying as true as any mecanical could hope...lol

Neil

[Ghillie_frog]

Why do you move the rest instead of the sight to Broadhead tune your bow? Will moving your rest to Broadhead tune effect your paper tune work you did first?

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by Ghillie_frog

Why do you move the rest instead of the sight to Broadhead tune your bow? Will moving your rest to Broadhead tune effect your paper tune work you did first?

You can move your move your sight all you want in direction...but that isnt going to bring your BH and FP group together...it just moves a bad group.

One can move the BH to the X ...but the FP will still be off

Paper tuning the bow with FP adjusts nock point up and down...and adjusts windage left and right for factors such as arrow spine..

Moving rest finds that sweet spot for Both the FP and BH after that...so they will group together...that you move that group via the sight both to the X

It may effect paper tune of FP after that... but that is the sweet spot where both FP and BH are flying the best...

For hunting one doesnt care if FP is slightly off on paper tune as long as BH is flying at its optinum and both are grouping together...

look at it as paper tuning the BH ..without paper... which is near impossible due to BH cuts...cant read a tear with cuts

Neil

[petew]

This works, and we need to realize paper tuning is just step 1 in tuning a bow.
If you want to shoot multiple styles of broadheads you continue the tuning as shown above but with each new head you shoot groups of 3 instead of 2. . FP, BH#1 , BH#2, and so on. each time you add a new style BH the movements of the rest become smaller to bring everything together.

[Ghillie_frog]

Ok that answers my question and makes sense. Thanks guys

[Bassett]

I have a whisker biscuit rest but it has no way to raise it? Or am I missing something completely.

[brendan's dad]

Then you will need to change the height of your nock (d-loop). If your rest needed to go up then your d-loop will need to go down... and vice versa.

[Bassett]

Originally Posted by brendan's dad

Then you will need to change the height of your nock (d-loop). If your rest needed to go up then your d-loop will need to go down... and vice versa.

I understand that, but I thought you needed to change both as it would change the level of the arrow? (Forgot what it is called but how you square your arrow less a degree when it is nocked)

[brendan's dad]

No need to move both. With a biscuit with no up and down adjustment if you square it to the riser or even slightly tilt it you should still be slicing your Berger hole properly. So if your broad heads are hitting high then you need to raise your nock point. Some bows tune nock high, some at 90 degrees and I even had a shift that tuned nock below 90. I always refrain to advise someone they need better equipment but in this case for a biscuit with both horizontal and vertical adjustment you are looking at about 40 bucks. Might be money well spent.

[Bassett]

Originally Posted by brendan's dad

No need to move both. With a biscuit with no up and down adjustment if you square it to the riser or even slightly tilt it you should still be slicing your Berger hole properly. So if your broad heads are hitting high then you need to raise your nock point. Some bows tune nock high, some at 90 degrees and I even had a shift that tuned nock below 90. I always refrain to advise someone they need better equipment but in this case for a biscuit with both horizontal and vertical adjustment you are looking at about 40 bucks. Might be money well spent.

Don't refrain, input and advice from another hunter is always appreciated. When I got my whisker it was 5 years ago so I didn't know they had them with both vertical and horizontal adjustment! Will look into it thank you very much.

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow

Did a final tune using this method and was putting broadheads [G5 Striker 125gr] in a three inch circle at 50 yards last night...flying as true as any mecanical could hope...lol

Neil

I'd like to put field points in a 3" circle at 50 yards....I've found in the last seven years, (after I turned 40) as my eyesight dropped off, my groups opened up a little each year. I shoot now with my prescription sunglasses, and that helped a good bit. I'm hitting pie plates at 50 at 100% accuracy, but at 60 yards, maybe 70%....Oh well, I'll just have to keep my shots within my comfort zone. It is not an equipment issue, it's for sure me, so that keeps me from tinkering.

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by Bassett

I have a whisker biscuit rest but it has no way to raise it? Or am I missing something completely.

:d Ya there is four models with complete vertical windage and horizontal adjustment...in a second...

No need for the most expensive ...just extra weight and messing around IMHO...I use the Power Shot because it is ballistic polymer which makes it so light and strong...there are other models as the Dead Shot that cost less ...but are exactally the same rest only Aircraft Aluninum...

The cheapest model without the adjustment is hard to work with properly!

We set up the Ugly Cookie [WB] so top leans slightly toward string..1/16 max...makes a quiter drawing and shooting rest...arrow in rest is center on berger/rest bolt hole...at eye level...


center arrow 13/16 from bow riser...

Than using a bow square from bottom of arrow in rest 1/4-5/16 above square or 90 degrees of that bottom of arrow on string...

Works optinum for 99% of shooters

Paper tune or walk back for bow brand, arrow and other variance's

Neil

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Bump as Per Discussion...

Neil

[backyard]

can a mod make these tuning tip threads stickys? thank you

[DanW]

Hi


Just wondering what distance you shoot at when initially tuning in for broad heads??


Thanks

[Naoscaire]

I am going to have to give this tuning method a try as I am having issues with my broad heads past 30 yards. At 20/30 yards I am bang on with tight groups. As soon as I move past 30 yards to 35-40 it starts to drastically change my groups and goes low left by a large margin for such a small increase in distance. Once I tune using this method will it work out to 60 yards or will I have to continue this type of tuning starting at 60 yards to make the rest of my pins work?

Thanks!

[fishcat78]

QUOTE=rookiemoosehunter;3590709]I can't see them either.[/QUOTE]

Would like to be able to see the images as well, is there something we can do on our end to view the images? Or do i have to get a photobucket account to view them?

[Z7shooter]

Is there a mod that can fix this for the group??

[Lefty-Canuck]

Mods can’t fix it...photobucket changed how they do things and all pictures hosted by them display like this unless you pay their $600/yr ransom...no joke!

LC

[ktownsend]

Nice

[Sogseal]

Hi all, the only thing I am not seeing explained here is what distances to tune to? Longest expected distance or repeat through multiple distances? Great information, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

[DiabeticKripple]

Originally Posted by Sogseal

Hi all, the only thing I am not seeing explained here is what distances to tune to? Longest expected distance or repeat through multiple distances? Great information, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I would say start at 20yds and once you are close shoot again at 40 and 60 to confirm the flight paths are the same at distance too.

[Sogseal]

Cool thanks

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

[Lefty-Canuck]

I tune EACH arrow that enters my quiver to at least 60yrds.

LC

[Sogseal]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

I tune EACH arrow that enters my quiver to at least 60yrds.



LC

Once it is tuned out to 60, can i expect lesser distances to fly true then?

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Sogseal

Once it is tuned out to 60, can i expect lesser distances to fly true then?

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Generally yes if your 1/2/3 axis is set correctly. I test a 20/40/60 minimum.

LC

[yakhunter]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Generally yes if your 1/2/3 axis is set correctly. I test a 20/40/60 minimum.

LC

I found this process very helpful but can’t recall how to do it without the photos.
Thanks.