Snare Design (opinions)

drake · #1 09-24-2014, 09:55 AM

I had the snare shop qute me the following snare design. What do you guys think? I will be using the snares in baited bush.

7ft, 5/64 1x19, camlock with teeth, 265lb break away, support collar, 9 gauge swivel on the end.

Thoughts?....

mark-edmonton · #2 09-24-2014, 10:04 AM

Make your own! Cheaper!!

tomcat · #3 09-24-2014, 10:12 AM

IMO the swivel is not needed as with the first wrap around a bush it will quit working. Add a 50# coil kill spring and everything will be fine. Myself I prefer a micro lock as it has no moving parts to freeze up.

drake · #4 09-24-2014, 11:23 AM

i ended up going with the micro lock and no swivel. my extensions will have swivels.

tomcat · #5 09-24-2014, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drake

i ended up going with the micro lock and no swivel. my extensions will have swivels.

Yes a swivel at the end of a snare is basically to accommodate the addition of an extension cable. What about the kill spring? I find they greatly improve the efficiency of the lock. Once I started using them I have never had any significant edema problem.

drake · #6 09-24-2014, 12:23 PM

I am going to run my snares without the kill spring this year. I am going to master a basic system this year and establish a routine then make improvements and changes next season.

H380 · #7 09-24-2014, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drake

I had the snare shop qute me the following snare design. What do you guys think? I will be using the snares in baited bush.

7ft, 5/64 1x19, camlock with teeth, 265lb break away, support collar, 9 gauge swivel on the end.

Thoughts?....

Sounds like mine except I added a Senneker kill spring and trigger . Using on open terrain like I am I was advised to use the spring and trigger because of little or no entanglement . In brush ,best listen to tomcat as he has it figured for sure .

HunterDave · #8 09-24-2014, 02:39 PM

I went with the Canadian Dispatch Snare with trigger in 5/64". There wasn't much difference price wise that I can remember.

I made my own extensions by just hammering the ferrules down with a hammer. It might be worth ordering swivels, ferrules and washers for your extensions at the same time. Halford's has plenty of cable.

bill9044 · #9 09-24-2014, 05:52 PM

I just ordered 200 snare parts I have a swedger so I am building my own. I use Marty sennekers system. locks springs triggers of the system were best price through Marty ( Canadian coyote company). The cable and ferrels were better through halfords. That deal the more you buy the cheaper from halfords is what saved money.

I like to support all the trapping stores in the province including trapper gords. If it saves me less than $30 than I don't care cause the shipping alone for me is damn near 30$. Also if any more of these stores shut down shipping steel in from eastern Canada or the US wouldn't be worth the $10 beaver that's for sure.

Sorry about the rant
Bill

tomcat · #10 09-24-2014, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drake

I am going to run my snares without the kill spring this year. I am going to master a basic system this year and establish a routine then make improvements and changes next season.

I would suggest you try a few with, a coil and/or Marty's, kill springs this season and then you will have your comparable results for making future improvements.

South west trappin RG · #11 09-25-2014, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drake

I am going to run my snares without the kill spring this year. I am going to master a basic system this year and establish a routine then make improvements and changes next season.

If I had the choice of better snares that are tested when I started It would have saved me from skinning dozens and dozens of water heads, I really started to hate skinning coyotes. Since I started using Marty's system I mabe skinn a few water heads a year. The proof is right there and the lack of a catch circles around the anchor is another reason to use the senaker system they kill fast.

drake · #12 09-25-2014, 09:15 AM

Thanks gents. Im sold. I am changing my order. thanks for the advice.

regards,

Drake

drake · #13 09-25-2014, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drake

Thanks gents. Im sold. I am changing my order. thanks for the advice.

regards,

Drake

to late....the snare shop already sent them. I will try and do the mod myself.

bill9044 · #14 09-25-2014, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by South west trappin RG

If I had the choice of better snares that are tested when I started It would have saved me from skinning dozens and dozens of water heads, I really started to hate skinning coyotes. Since I started using Marty's system I mabe skinn a few water heads a year. The proof is right there and the lack of a catch circles around the anchor is another reason to use the senaker system they kill fast.

X 2. Water heads suck. My first coyote I seen alive with water head I felt bad real bad. I am not fond of coyotes but that coyote looked at me head was puffed up I couldn't dispatch quick enough. I use Marty's system it works. Power rams work great as well.

coy coyote · #15 09-26-2014, 11:46 PM

Just a shout out if your shopping around for supplies. Snare cable. 5 to 7 cent a foot. 3/32. 500 foot rolls. Heartland auto in stettler. Crimps or ferrules. Any size Titan supplies in Edmonton from one to five cents a crimp. Any one is looking for 1/8 wolf locks. Black Land shark. 20$ for 50. Got them in stock

kingrat · #16 09-27-2014, 10:19 AM

yes i cant say enough about kill springs even just the 50 lb normal ones never mind martys system.

Rabbit Snarer · #17 09-27-2014, 02:05 PM

I have used both trigger and plain kill springs and can't see much difference in them and plain amberg lock. But maybe after reading this thread and a couple of previous ones it depends on weather you are in thick stuff or open??? A friend our east uses kill springs and says that most coyotes are dead on a 2 day check which is better than I do in the thick stuff. My problem is almost always hair in the lock.

tomcat · #18 09-27-2014, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rabbit Snarer

I have used both trigger and plain kill springs and can't see much difference in them and plain amberg lock. My problem is almost always hair in the lock.

The Amberg lock is definitely great on its own but the spring provides extra locking power. Concerning fur jamming the lock is this with the Amberg or are you also using slim locks? I have had slim locks catch up in the fur with their little protrusion but never an Amberg that I can recall. Also in the thick bush are you tying high and solid, 5-6 feet up a tree stem? Tying high greatly assist in keeping the lock on the back of the neck and up at the desired quick dispatch area at the base of the skull.

Rabbit Snarer · #19 09-27-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomcat

The Amberg lock is definitely great on its own but the spring provides extra locking power. Concerning fur jamming the lock is this with the Amberg or are you also using slim locks? I have had slim locks catch up in the fur with their little protrusion but never an Amberg that I can recall. Also in the thick bush are you tying high and solid, 5-6 feet up a tree stem? Tying high greatly assist in keeping the lock on the back of the neck and up at the desired quick dispatch area at the base of the skull.

I have a collection of locks going back to some nail locks but in thinking about it, it is the cam loc that is giving the trouble, i only use them and the amberg now. I do tie high but sometimes on a drag to preserve a good spot. Sometimes the snare is too far back and actually at a bit of an angle, maybe the snare stuck a little when closing. Good advise.