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07-19-2015, 08:06 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 804
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solar panel/charge controller help
I installed my generator a distance away from my cabin. I also installed "command start" on the generator. It seems the command start, because it is in some form of standby mode, runs the generator battery down after a few days of no use (of the generator).
My question is how do I connect a solar panel to the generator battery, because the generator alternator also charges the battery. Will a charge controller prevent the alternator from sending current back in to the solar panel?
Sure, a simple switch to isolate the charge controller from the battery when I arrive at the cabin will be the easy fix, but we also have to factor in the wife and kids that will forget about the switch
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07-19-2015, 09:40 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,309
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Most charge controllers have a reverse current diode built in.
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07-19-2015, 09:41 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Northeast of Edmonton
Posts: 427
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I would put an isolator switch on the generator battery. Like a master power switch. Turn on when you get their, turn off when you leave.
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07-19-2015, 09:55 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North of you!
Posts: 680
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The battery sends current into the solar panel anyway. It doesn't matter if the generator is charging the battery to, it won't affect you solar panel. Just get a small panel for trickle charging and then you won't need a solar charge controller
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07-19-2015, 10:15 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 971
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Reverse current flow will cook the panel... A charge controller is definitely required.
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07-19-2015, 11:18 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 476
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solar wholesaler in ne Calgary will set u up as cheap as possible
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07-19-2015, 11:29 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 804
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Thanks guys. Will contact solar wholesaler. Looks lile i will need a regularor/ controler of sorts
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07-20-2015, 02:02 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North of you!
Posts: 680
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solar panel/charge controller help
If you hook up a solar panel to a battery, the battery is already at 12 volts. If the generator is charging the battery, the battery is at 14.4 volts. The solar panel doesn't know or care if the generator is also charging the battery. The required cuircetry is built into the solar panel.
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07-20-2015, 03:50 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 2,374
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The command start shouldn't be running down the battery after only a few days or even a few weeks.
You have either a bad battery or a parasitic drain somewhere.
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07-20-2015, 05:58 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brslk
The command start shouldn't be running down the battery after only a few days or even a few weeks.
You have either a bad battery or a parasitic drain somewhere.
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From reviews on the net it seems it is a common problem (running down the battery) There is a servo holding the choke open whilst it waits for the command to start. I suspect this is what drains the battery because as soon as I disconnect the battery there is a spring on the choke that pulls it closed. Connect battery and the choke opens. Next time i will put a multimeter on to see what amps are drawn in standby mode
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07-20-2015, 06:40 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxz1997
If you hook up a solar panel to a battery, the battery is already at 12 volts. If the generator is charging the battery, the battery is at 14.4 volts. The solar panel doesn't know or care if the generator is also charging the battery. The required cuircetry is built into the solar panel.
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Have you read the instructions that come with the solar panels, "disconnect when vehicle is running to avoid damaging solar panel". It doesn't care how YOU think it SHOULD work.
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07-20-2015, 06:57 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 14
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Parasites
Good discussion even if it's a few years old. My wife's car has the same problem. Ever since the Nissan dealer installed the remote start, the car's battery will be dead after a couple of days of no use. The Lloydminster Nissan dealer who installed it sold her 2 new batteries so far while I was out of town. The car only has 35,000 km on it. Grrr..
I took it to another garage and they worked on it for 1.5 hrs and found that yes, it has a parasitic draw but no, they can't find it (the owner would not charge me a thing).
I think I'll put an isolator switch on the battery. I'm out of options and the wife likes her remote start.
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07-20-2015, 08:03 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lloydminster AB/SK
Posts: 1,349
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Did the repair shop indicate the amps being drawn out of your battery as dead in two days thats a big draw? If it went dead after two or three weeks thats a different story.
Wouldn't an isolator switch cut the power to the remote start and you would need to engage the the switch before the remote would start? I would put in a small battery charger until you find why your battery is drawn down so quickly. Then you would plug and unplug it like you would a block heater
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/no...l#.VazwIivF-So
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07-20-2015, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 14
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Battery Charger
That looks like a good idea! My wife should be ok with that. I'm in the jungle right now but I'll check the draw when I get home in August.
(My Dodge 1500 gets left at the airport sometimes for 60 days in the winter and still starts every time)
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07-20-2015, 10:00 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North of you!
Posts: 680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcmax05
Have you read the instructions that come with the solar panels, "disconnect when vehicle is running to avoid damaging solar panel". It doesn't care how YOU think it SHOULD work.
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I don't think you understand Solar or electricity. If this was actually the case, then you couldn't hook up more than one solar panel in parallel because it would wreck the 2nd solar panel. The first panel doesn't know if its an alternator or another panel that's also charging the battery nor does it matter. If you were right, then my new solar system which I just installed with all the panels hooked up in parallel would be a smoking mess. But it isn't, it's charging my batteries, just like it should.
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07-20-2015, 10:19 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 804
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The way I see a charge controller work os that it steps down the 21V or whatever the panel puts out, down to 13.8V which then goes to the battery. Once the battery reads 13.8V back to the controller it cuts power from the panel. So the most the battery will feed back to the controller is, for arguments sake, 13.8V. Now if the alternator kicks in it could put out up to 17V during start up. Will this spike in voltage not fry my controller?
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