Tru Oil FYI

[nemo]

See alot of guys trying to find this stuff. This product is "Tung-oil" it is available at Lee Valley Tools.
Try it and see you won't be disappointed!
Best regards

[MK2750]

Tung Oil is awesome and I use it almost exclusively on my nicer rifles. It is however not quite the same as Tru-oil. Tru-oil contains a drying agent and hardens like a poly. I believe it contains a mixture of Tung oil and poly.

What most companies market as Danish Oil is more similar to Tru-oil.

I use Circa 1850 Tung oil and mix it with there Danish oil in some applications. I have used straight Danish Oil but it finishes with a plastic look like a gloss Browning or Remington factory finish.

The advantages of a poly mix is the appearance of a hand rub finish (on a fast horse) with greater durability and lower maintenance.

The advantages of pure oil is depth and warmth in both look and feel. It does require regular maintenance to protect the wood and keep a nice look.

Lee Valley may be marketing a poly mix under the name Tung-oil as I don't believe the name is in any way protected. It is used for different quality of product at the desecration of the manufacturer. The proper use of the name would be pure oil with no additives.

Watson's Danish Oil is the closest I have seen to Tru-oil and a very good product. Min-wax also has some interesting products but one should try them on scrap before committing a stock to the finish.

I should also mention that a pure oil finish takes months to apply properly and it gets even better over the years. With a lot of elbow grease a near gloss appearance can be achieved.

Tru-oil (or Danish oil) can be applied a light coat a day for a week or less and you are done.

[spazzy]

Check this out http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=331108

[tchardy1972]

Originally Posted by MK2750

Tung Oil is awesome and I use it almost exclusively on my nicer rifles. It is however not quite the same as Tru-oil. Tru-oil contains a drying agent and hardens like a poly. I believe it contains a mixture of Tung oil and poly.

What most companies market as Danish Oil is more similar to Tru-oil.

I use Circa 1850 Tung oil and mix it with there Danish oil in some applications. I have used straight Danish Oil but it finishes with a plastic look like a gloss Browning or Remington factory finish.

The advantages of a poly mix is the appearance of a hand rub finish (on a fast horse) with greater durability and lower maintenance.

The advantages of pure oil is depth and warmth in both look and feel. It does require regular maintenance to protect the wood and keep a nice look.

Lee Valley may be marketing a poly mix under the name Tung-oil as I don't believe the name is in any way protected. It is used for different quality of product at the desecration of the manufacturer. The proper use of the name would be pure oil with no additives.

Watson's Danish Oil is the closest I have seen to Tru-oil and a very good product. Min-wax also has some interesting products but one should try them on scrap before committing a stock to the finish.

I should also mention that a pure oil finish takes months to apply properly and it gets even better over the years. With a lot of elbow grease a near gloss appearance can be achieved.

Tru-oil (or Danish oil) can be applied a light coat a day for a week or less and you are done.

Can you please elaborate on your method for a pure oil finish. I have an old shotgun I'm working on with beautiful wood that is coming along but could maybe use a little different technique.

[icehunter]

Tru-oil and tung oil are 2 totally different horses.I have a excellent chapter here in one of my gunsmithing books on how to use tung oil to bring out a sheen in a piece of wood as well as a low gloss.I should try and scan it and copy it here for you.The results are months apart...

[MK2750]

Originally Posted by tchardy1972

Can you please elaborate on your method for a pure oil finish. I have an old shotgun I'm working on with beautiful wood that is coming along but could maybe use a little different technique.

It really depends on the piece and the desired result. Some woods need a thin teak or thinned Tung oil and some soak up anything. Linseed has more of a yellowish tint and mixes well with light colored wood etc etc.

Some pieces start looking nice in a couple of applications, I just finished a custom that I have been working on since November.

The grain and how it sits on the stock is important. "Beautiful wood" can mean pretty much anything. Presentation grade wood has a lot of burl and is hard as nails. It takes time to make the grain pop without smothering it.

Straight grain can be beautiful as well and is a walk in the park to work with compared to burl.

Damage, proud wood and open grain all have different methods that work better in different situations. Then there is the checkering to deal with etc etc.

Without studying the piece and knowing what you want for results, I have no idea what the best plan of attack is and to explain every possible scenario would be impossible.